Restoring botched brows can be a major pain
in the...arch. We asked top groomers how to get the fullest,
shapeliest, most face-flattering results, minus all the growing pains.
With a simple raise, a small furrow, or a
quick lift and hover, eyebrows convey surprise, frustration, shock, and
excitement more effectively (and less annoyingly) than an exclamation
point on a tweet. But sometimes, eyebrows can send unintended messages:
Too much tweezing can lead to bewildered or timid and retreating arches.
Wipe away that worried look (if you can). With a little grooming savvy,
the main thing your brows will communicate this season is sex appeal.
Overtweezed Brows
Anyone with a magnifying mirror and tweezers can recklessly prune their
brows, but patiently growing them back? That takes real pluck. Here's
how to undo the damage. • RETIRE THE TWEEZERS. It takes three to four months
to see real change, and up to a year for brows to grow back entirely.
"The first week is the hardest. It feels like the hairs are mocking
you," says Ramy Gafni, a New York City brow groomer. "But if you leave
them alone, those random little hairs will eventually form a full brow."
If a stray is growing at an odd angle, resist the urge to tweeze—trim
it instead. • MIND THE GAPS. Fill in sparse areas with a brow
pencil (eyeliners are too creamy and heavily pigmented). Go one to two
shades lighter than your hair if you're a brunette, or try taupe if
you're blonde. "Otherwise you'll look like Joan Crawford," says Gafni.
Use short, angled strokes in the direction of hair growth to beef up
bald spots, but stay within your natural brow line. "Never create an
arch with makeup," says Gafni. "Even the right shade can look obvious.
Your bone structure should create the arch for you." • SHAPE UP. Define the arch (the brow's highest
point, just beyond the iris as you look ahead) by yanking a few hairs
beneath it. "The most common mistake I see is people taking too much off
the ends," says Kristie Streicher, an eyebrow groomer at Warren-Tricomi
salons in New York City and Los Angeles. Eyebrows that fall short look
tadpole-y and aging, since the ends thin as we get older, she says. Overgrown Brows
Frida Kahlo is the exception, not the rule. "Strong brows need to have
shape and separation," says Streicher. "Otherwise they'll overwhelm your
face." • DIVIDE AND CONQUER. When hair verges on the
dreaded unibrow territory, you need to grab the tweezers. Hold a pencil
vertically from the outer edge of your nostril to your eyebrows to
determine where each one should start. • MAKE THE CUT. Removing bulk from your brows
doesn't always mean pruning them. Nine times out of ten, a trim is all
you need. Comb your brows straight up with a spooley brush, then trim
only the longest hairs, staggering the length as you go. "Cut one hair a
little longer and one a little shorter, so your eyebrows don't get a
crew cut," says Streicher. Follow up with a brow gel to keep hairs in
place. • END WELL. "It's a sin to shorten beautiful, long
eyebrows," says New York City brow groomer Joey Healy. Unless the tails
of your eyebrows dip too far below where the heads begin (which can
result in a dragging effect), leave the length alone. Make sure to taper
the ends to a clean point for a sharp finish. Comma Brows
If you raise your eyebrows while tweezing, you're likely removing too much from the arches and ends. The result? Comma brows. • ACHIEVE BALANCE. "Taking weight from the front
will actually make the ends appear thicker," says brow expert Eliza
Petrescu of Eliza's Eyes salon in New York City. "Your brows will be
instantly more natural looking." Lightly fill in with a brow pencil,
concentrating color on the sparser tails. Angry Brows
Brows that look like an upside down V (think Michelle Obama in 2008) can make you seem angry, says Gafni. • AVOID THE POINT. For a friendlier effect, remove a
few hairs from the top of the arch. "Forget the old rule that says you
should never tweeze above the brow," says Tonya Crooks, owner of Mirror
Mirror Beauty Studio in Los Angeles. "If a few hairs are interfering
with an ideal shape, they need to go, period." • FOCUS ON THE FRONT. Using a spooley brush, comb up
the inner half of your brows and trim any hairs that extend far past
the top. (Those hairs in front can get really long.)
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